Removing a back boiler: what is actually involved

Thousands of London houses still heat themselves from a boiler hidden behind the living room fireplace. Replacing one is not a swap.

Written by FM Power Plumbing and Heating Ltd with AI assistance ·

A back boiler sits in the fireplace opening, behind a gas fire, with the flue going up the chimney. They were fitted in enormous numbers from the 1960s to the 1980s, and a great many are still running in the interwar housing of Harrow, Hillingdon, Barnet, Enfield and Finchley. They are typically around half as efficient as a modern condensing boiler, they occupy a fireplace, and spare parts for most models have become difficult to obtain.

Replacing one is a genuinely bigger piece of work than swapping a wall-hung boiler, which is why the national fixed-price installers usually decline to quote for it online. Knowing what the job contains is the difference between accepting a fair price and suspecting you are being overcharged.

Why it is not a straight swap

A wall-hung boiler replacement takes the old appliance off the wall and puts a new one in roughly the same place, on roughly the same pipes, through roughly the same flue hole. A back boiler replacement has none of those continuities. The old appliance is inside the chimney breast, so it has to come out through the fireplace opening. The chimney that served as its flue cannot serve a modern condensing boiler, so a new flue route has to be created — usually through an external wall in a different room entirely.

The new boiler then goes somewhere else altogether: a kitchen, a utility room, sometimes an airing cupboard. That means new gas pipework to the new position, new flow and return connections, a condensate drain that did not previously exist, and an electrical supply. The old chimney has to be dealt with properly rather than simply abandoned, and the fireplace has to be made good.

The old pipework is the part people underestimate

Most back boiler systems were gravity-fed for hot water: the cylinder heated by convection through large-bore pipes with no pump on that circuit. Those pipes are often twenty-eight millimetre steel or copper running in the floor void, and they are the wrong arrangement entirely for a modern sealed system. Some of it can be reused, much of it cannot, and which is which is a survey question rather than a guess.

There is also what is inside them. Fifty years of a gravity circuit produces a great deal of sludge and corrosion debris, and it does not stay politely in the old pipes when a new pump starts moving water at speed. This is the single most common reason a new boiler fails early on a converted back boiler system, and it is why any competent quote includes a proper power flush and a system filter rather than a bottle of cleaner and a hopeful attitude.

  • Old gravity pipework is frequently the wrong size for a sealed system
  • Sludge from decades of an open, gravity circuit will migrate to the new heat exchanger
  • A magnetic system filter is not an upsell on this job, it is what protects the warranty
  • Expect two to three working days, not one

What you get out of it

The efficiency gain is real and large. A back boiler typically runs at a seasonal efficiency well below that of a modern condensing appliance, and the difference shows on a gas bill across a London winter. You also get the fireplace back, which in a period house is often the point, and you remove an appliance whose parts are increasingly unavailable — a failure in January on a boiler nobody can get a component for is a bad week.

The other gain is control. A back boiler system usually has minimal controls: a timer, one room thermostat, and hot water that happens whenever the heating is on. A modern replacement can zone the house, control the cylinder separately and run the heating at a lower flow temperature, which is where condensing boilers actually achieve their efficiency.

Questions to ask before you accept a quote

Ask where the new boiler will go and why, and what the flue route will be. Ask what happens to the chimney and to the fireplace opening. Ask which of the existing pipework is being kept and which is being replaced, and what the cleaning regime is. Ask whether the price includes making good the plaster and brickwork, because on this job that is real work and a quote that excludes it is not comparable with one that includes it.

And ask for it in writing as a fixed price after a survey, not as an estimate over the phone. Nobody can price a back boiler removal accurately without seeing the fireplace, the chimney breast, the proposed new position and the floor void.

Common questions

Can I keep my gas fire if the back boiler goes?

Sometimes. The fire and the back boiler are separate appliances sharing an opening and a flue, so a fire in good condition can occasionally stay. In practice the flue arrangement usually has to change and many older fires are at the end of their life anyway, so it is a question to settle at the survey rather than to assume either way.

How long does the work take?

Typically two to three working days for a straightforward conversion, longer if the new boiler position is far from the old one or if pipework has to be rerun through finished floors. You will normally be without heating and hot water for part of that, and a good installer tells you which part before starting.

Why will the national fixed-price firms not quote for it?

Because their model depends on jobs that can be priced from a questionnaire and completed in a day by a two-person team. A back boiler removal cannot be priced without a survey and does not fit in a day. It is not that the job is exotic — it is that it does not fit their process.

What is a back boiler?

A back boiler is a gas water heater built into the fireplace opening, hidden behind the gas fire and vented up the chimney rather than through an outside wall. The usual signs that you have one are no boiler visible anywhere in the house, hot water stored in a cylinder in an airing cupboard, a cold water tank in the loft, and controls that amount to little more than a timer and one room thermostat.

How do you remove a back boiler?

Removing a back boiler is not a job for the householder: disconnecting the gas supply, dealing with the flue in the chimney and taking the appliance out of the builders opening is work for a Gas Safe registered engineer. What you can do is clear the room around the fireplace, lift or protect carpet near the hearth, decide with the engineer where the new boiler and its flue will go, and have the chimney and making-good agreed in writing before anyone starts.

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